In 1984, Gaultier’s “Boy Toy” collection challenged men’s fashion with striped shirts and skirts - and sold around 3,000 of them. This was the period of Gaultier’s most iconic designs. “He was absolutely peerless for the longest time in the late ’80s and early ’90s,” fashion editor Tim Blanks told the New York Times. His playful but exquisitely crafted reimaginings of classic Parisian styles - the striped mariner shirt, the trench coat - soon became recurring themes of Gaultier’s eponymous house, which he founded with his life partner and business associate Francis Menuge in 1982. After Gaultier had his first runway show in 1976, featuring unconventional statements like pairing motorcycle jackets with ballerina skirts, it didn’t take long for his star to rise. Gaultier began his career in 1970 as an assistant to Cardin, who admired the sketches the 18-year-old had sent for his appraisal. He’s said that some of his earliest fashion work was for his teddy bear, and later he would send his sketches to designers he revered, including Pierre Cardin. But he loved to sketch and was drawn to clothing, citing the corsets in his maternal grandmother’s closet as having a formative impact on his creative direction. 'It's interesting that the law brought over by the colonisers said that was an 'unnatural act', and those are the same words that my dad used,' says Lokesh.Endeavoring to tear down gender stereotypes and sartorial norms on the catwalk, making underwear outerwear, putting men in skirts and models of all shapes and sizes on the runway, the wildly provocative French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier has created transformational clothing designs that draw on numerous influences and boldly merge haute couture with street sensibility.Īn only child raised in the suburbs of Paris, Gaultier didn’t have a formal fashion education. Homosexual acts were rendered a criminal offence until 2018, when the law was overturned.ĭespite the legal judgment, seen as a victory for India's LGBTQIA+ community, Lokesh believes the legacy of the laws live on.

'Anything that deviated from the norm on ideas about the family, sexuality male and female behaviour was seen as deviant.'Īnti-sodomy laws were imposed by British officials in India from 1861. ' couldn't go around the whole place, stamping out the hijras and forcing them to stop doing what they were doing, but what they did was create a kind of social construct,' she explains. Loading YouTube content The influence of the BritishĪccording to Devleena Ghosh, a professor in social and political sciences at the University of Technology, India's colonisation by Britain was a significant contributor.

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